It's surprising how much common technology becomes halfway useless when the internet goes away?
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- Chozon1
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Don't forget fluff too. At least for my part, I chose Cygnar as my Warmachine faction because I like their fluff, and I can get behind the army and the characters even though shooty tactics are not particularly my flavor. 
It's surprising how much common technology becomes halfway useless when the internet goes away?
It's surprising how much common technology becomes halfway useless when the internet goes away?

- Deepfreeze32
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Yeah, the IG/AM visual aesthetic really appeals to me, but I need to read their codex to see how their background sits with me. XD
Another question: Assuming I've picked an army and read the codex and all that, what are some ideas on what models to buy first? Or is that too specific to the factions?
Another question: Assuming I've picked an army and read the codex and all that, what are some ideas on what models to buy first? Or is that too specific to the factions?
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Hehe yeah... And I was thinking just the other day about how I remember having a computer during a time when Internet access was just an accessory.Chozon1 wrote: It's surprising how much common technology becomes halfway useless when the internet goes away?
Well, units in a Codex are divided into unit types... There are HQ, which represents your leaders and special characters, there are Troop, which represent the basic unit types, there's Elite, which is self explanatory, Fast Attack and Heavy Support. If you're playing a standard 40K game (Warforged) there is a chart which governs how many units of what types you can take per detachment... So your basic force has to have, at a minimum, 2 Troop and 1 HQ. So I would recommend you start there. I don't know the IG army well enough to know what sort of units you'll have in your Troop section, but that at least narrows it down somewhat.Deepfreeze32 wrote:Another question: Assuming I've picked an army and read the codex and all that, what are some ideas on what models to buy first? Or is that too specific to the factions?
"He who takes offense when no offense is intended is a fool, and he who takes offense when offense is intended is a greater fool."
—Brigham Young
"Don't take refuge in the false security of consensus."
—Christopher Hitchens
—Brigham Young
"Don't take refuge in the false security of consensus."
—Christopher Hitchens
- Deepfreeze32
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Haven't quite stuck with IG, but Orks are looking tempting. They're also freaking hilarious.
Friend of mine swears by Tau, but all I know is "Long range shooty"
So what's your take on Orks and Tau?
Friend of mine swears by Tau, but all I know is "Long range shooty"
So what's your take on Orks and Tau?
- ArcticFox
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People who play Orks generally play them because they like the fluff. Orks are the unsubtle, point and click army.
Tau are good if you like maneuvering and keeping your distance. They're elite-ish so you'll rarely outnumber your opponent, so it's all about staying out of close combat and using your superior firepower to your advantage.
Tau are good if you like maneuvering and keeping your distance. They're elite-ish so you'll rarely outnumber your opponent, so it's all about staying out of close combat and using your superior firepower to your advantage.
"He who takes offense when no offense is intended is a fool, and he who takes offense when offense is intended is a greater fool."
—Brigham Young
"Don't take refuge in the false security of consensus."
—Christopher Hitchens
—Brigham Young
"Don't take refuge in the false security of consensus."
—Christopher Hitchens
- Deepfreeze32
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Asking for a friend (Seriously, not kidding here): Is there a way to remove primer from a model while preserving the detail (Not melting the resin the model is made of)?
One of my friends who has armies for the Tau and Tyrannids tried to prime his Tau army with a primer he bought from a games store. The primer contained powder (or something) that obscured the texture of the models he primed, giving them this bumpy look with low detail. He wants to be able to undo it.
Any suggestions? I've heard acetone-free nail polish remover, or soaking in room-temperature (or slightly warmer) cleaning solutions then scrubbing them might work, but I thought I would ask you before suggesting anything.
One of my friends who has armies for the Tau and Tyrannids tried to prime his Tau army with a primer he bought from a games store. The primer contained powder (or something) that obscured the texture of the models he primed, giving them this bumpy look with low detail. He wants to be able to undo it.
Any suggestions? I've heard acetone-free nail polish remover, or soaking in room-temperature (or slightly warmer) cleaning solutions then scrubbing them might work, but I thought I would ask you before suggesting anything.
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Angrily pelting someone with eggs as a way to express your feelings?

- ArcticFox
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We use a 50/50 mix of Simple Green and water. Works on everything safely that we've tried. Just let it soak in there a while (maybe a couple days if it's primer and been there a while) and then you can clean it off with a toothbrush.Deepfreeze32 wrote:Asking for a friend (Seriously, not kidding here): Is there a way to remove primer from a model while preserving the detail (Not melting the resin the model is made of)?
One of my friends who has armies for the Tau and Tyrannids tried to prime his Tau army with a primer he bought from a games store. The primer contained powder (or something) that obscured the texture of the models he primed, giving them this bumpy look with low detail. He wants to be able to undo it.
Any suggestions? I've heard acetone-free nail polish remover, or soaking in room-temperature (or slightly warmer) cleaning solutions then scrubbing them might work, but I thought I would ask you before suggesting anything.
I can think of a few people I wouldn't mind doing that to.Chozon1 wrote:Angrily pelting someone with eggs as a way to express your feelings?
"He who takes offense when no offense is intended is a fool, and he who takes offense when offense is intended is a greater fool."
—Brigham Young
"Don't take refuge in the false security of consensus."
—Christopher Hitchens
—Brigham Young
"Don't take refuge in the false security of consensus."
—Christopher Hitchens
- Deepfreeze32
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Another question.
I cannot tell from the pictures on Games Workshop's website, but do some of the vehicle models have moving parts?
I've seen photos of Land Raiders with open from doors and side doors. I was wondering if those open as part of the model, or if you have to fix the model to some position and it's stuck until you undo the adhesive. Was also wondering if the turrets on the side can move (Or are fixed during construction), and if tanks, for instance, have movable turrets and so forth.
I'm currently in a weird state right now. I like Warhammer 40K because the story is awesome and I like the setting (Though it is a touch too oppressive at times), plus the models look amazing. I like building and painting models. I'm just not sure if that alone is reason enough to pursue the hobby, given how little I know about the way it plays and how much it costs. XD
I cannot tell from the pictures on Games Workshop's website, but do some of the vehicle models have moving parts?
I've seen photos of Land Raiders with open from doors and side doors. I was wondering if those open as part of the model, or if you have to fix the model to some position and it's stuck until you undo the adhesive. Was also wondering if the turrets on the side can move (Or are fixed during construction), and if tanks, for instance, have movable turrets and so forth.
I'm currently in a weird state right now. I like Warhammer 40K because the story is awesome and I like the setting (Though it is a touch too oppressive at times), plus the models look amazing. I like building and painting models. I'm just not sure if that alone is reason enough to pursue the hobby, given how little I know about the way it plays and how much it costs. XD
- ArcticFox
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They do. A Land raider's assault hatch (the doors in the front) can open and close, and the turrets/cupolas can move. The side doors don't have hinges, so you're gluing them shut or leaving them off.
"He who takes offense when no offense is intended is a fool, and he who takes offense when offense is intended is a greater fool."
—Brigham Young
"Don't take refuge in the false security of consensus."
—Christopher Hitchens
—Brigham Young
"Don't take refuge in the false security of consensus."
—Christopher Hitchens
- Chozon1
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How do you fight painters burn out?

- ArcticFox
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By not pushing too hard. If I don't feel like painting, I don't. I have enough other interests and hobbies that I can switch to until I feel the mojo coming back. A hobby shouldn't feel like a job.
"He who takes offense when no offense is intended is a fool, and he who takes offense when offense is intended is a greater fool."
—Brigham Young
"Don't take refuge in the false security of consensus."
—Christopher Hitchens
—Brigham Young
"Don't take refuge in the false security of consensus."
—Christopher Hitchens
- Chozon1
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Plastic glue, or super glue for polystyrene models?
I picked up some model planes today that were for sale, since I thought a change of models might get me inspired to finish up my Warmachine stuff. ^_^ The plastic feels a bit thinner than I'm used to, so I'm wondering if I need to go ahead and get some plastic glue for strength purposes, since to my understanding, it basically welds the plastic, right?
I picked up some model planes today that were for sale, since I thought a change of models might get me inspired to finish up my Warmachine stuff. ^_^ The plastic feels a bit thinner than I'm used to, so I'm wondering if I need to go ahead and get some plastic glue for strength purposes, since to my understanding, it basically welds the plastic, right?

- ArcticFox
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Right. Model cement creates a chemical weld that fuses the plastic together. That's why it's so strong and almost impossible to separate once it's set. Sometimes with my Warhammer stuff I use super glue instead if there's a chance I might one day want to pop the model apart to change the loadout or something, but most of the time I use model cement whenever I can.Chozon1 wrote:Plastic glue, or super glue for polystyrene models?
I picked up some model planes today that were for sale, since I thought a change of models might get me inspired to finish up my Warmachine stuff. ^_^ The plastic feels a bit thinner than I'm used to, so I'm wondering if I need to go ahead and get some plastic glue for strength purposes, since to my understanding, it basically welds the plastic, right?
"He who takes offense when no offense is intended is a fool, and he who takes offense when offense is intended is a greater fool."
—Brigham Young
"Don't take refuge in the false security of consensus."
—Christopher Hitchens
—Brigham Young
"Don't take refuge in the false security of consensus."
—Christopher Hitchens
- Chozon1
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Cool. I got some the other day, and I've started assembling my planes. I like the plastic glue, though I'm not used to having to hold my pieces in place so long. XD
After much thought, I decided that a regular WWII warplane would not be enough to hold my interest, so I'm converting one into a Steampunk plane (with a paint scheme matching my Cygnar and bearing the Cygnus. >_>), and I think the other's going to be a Dakkajet...I don't know if I'll ever get an Ork army, but I love the ramshackle look of ork tech. XD
When you've stubbed your second toe of the day, you should just quit and go to bed?
After much thought, I decided that a regular WWII warplane would not be enough to hold my interest, so I'm converting one into a Steampunk plane (with a paint scheme matching my Cygnar and bearing the Cygnus. >_>), and I think the other's going to be a Dakkajet...I don't know if I'll ever get an Ork army, but I love the ramshackle look of ork tech. XD
When you've stubbed your second toe of the day, you should just quit and go to bed?



